Puerto Princesa is the capital of Palawan and the arrival point for most travellers heading to El Nido or Coron. Many people transit through it quickly — and miss the fact that Puerto Princesa and its immediate surroundings contain some of the most significant natural attractions in the Philippines, including one of the New Seven Wonders of Nature.
Getting to Puerto Princesa
Puerto Princesa International Airport (PPS) is the main entry point. Cebu Pacific, Philippine Airlines and AirAsia all fly direct from Manila (1.5 hours), with connections from Cebu, Clark, and other domestic points. The airport is 5km from the city centre — a short tricycle or taxi ride. Note: Palawan is increasingly popular, and PPR flights fill quickly during peak season (November to May). Book at least a month in advance for the Christmas and New Year period.
Puerto Princesa Subterranean River
The Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park — a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the New Seven Wonders of Nature — is the centrepiece attraction, and for good reason. The river flows for 8.2km underground through a massive karst limestone cave system before emptying directly into the sea at Ulugan Bay. The navigable section that tourists see (4.3km) includes chambers of extraordinary scale — the Italian’s Chamber is one of the world’s largest cave chambers, estimated at 360m long, 160m wide, and 75m high. The rock formations include massive stalactites, twisted columns, and walls draped with calcite curtains.
Tours depart from the Sabang pier by boat into the cave. The experience is genuinely impressive — not in a theme-park way, but in the way that genuinely ancient, vast, dark spaces with dripping limestone formations tend to be. Wear clothes you don’t mind getting wet. Bats are everywhere. It’s atmospheric and a bit eerie and well worth the logistics.
Practical: Permits are required and limited — book through accredited tour operators in Puerto Princesa (not through the cave directly). Standard day tours from Puerto Princesa include a van transfer to Sabang (1.5 hours), boat to the cave, the 45-minute river boat tour, lunch, and return. Cost: ₱1,200–1,800 per person including the permit. Book 2–3 days ahead in peak season.
Honda Bay Island Hopping
Honda Bay, just 15km north of Puerto Princesa, contains several small islands with white sand beaches, clear water and reef snorkelling. The most visited are Starfish Island (calm, shallow, good for families), Cowrie Island (the best beach, small but beautiful), Luli Island (a sandbar that half-disappears at high tide — “LUmilitaw at LIlubog,” Tagalog for rises and submerges). Full-day island hopping tours from Sta. Lourdes Wharf cover 3 islands, including snorkelling equipment, guide and boat, for ₱800–1,200 per person (plus entrance fees). Good for a morning or full day when you don’t want to travel as far as the Underground River.
Iwahig River Firefly Watching
One of Puerto Princesa’s most atmospheric experiences happens after dark. The Iwahig River, about 15km south of the city through the Iwahig Prison and Penal Farm (a famous open prison where inmates farm the surrounding land), hosts a dense population of synchronised fireflies in the mangrove trees along the banks. Evening boat tours navigate slowly through the mangroves while thousands of fireflies flash in patterns overhead. The effect is genuinely magical and unlike anything else in the Philippines. Tours leave at dusk (6–7pm) and last 1.5–2 hours. Cost: ₱500–800 per person.
City Sights and Food
Puerto Princesa is more pleasant to spend time in than most provincial capitals. The waterfront Baywalk is well maintained with restaurants and food stalls. Kinabuch’s Restaurant on the main road is worth finding for fresh tamilok (woodworm — more approachable than it sounds, tastes like fresh oyster) and local Palawan seafood. Ka Lui Restaurant has long been the city’s most celebrated restaurant — a beautiful open-air bamboo space serving exceptional fresh seafood and Palawan specialties (reservations recommended at dinner).
Base for El Nido and Coron
Most travellers continue to El Nido (5–6 hours north by van, or 55 minutes by small plane) or Coron (by live-aboard or small plane). Puerto Princesa → El Nido is the most popular route; vans depart from Puerto Princesa several times daily (₱750–1,000). There are also live-aboard boats that do the El Nido–Coron route through the Bacuit Archipelago — a spectacular 3–4 day trip.
Best Time to Visit
November to May is dry season in Puerto Princesa — the Underground River and Honda Bay are both accessible in calm conditions. June to October is wet season; the cave can be closed during heavy rains or swells, and Honda Bay island hopping can be cancelled due to rough seas. If you have flexibility, plan the Underground River visit for the first or second day of your trip (to allow for rebooking if weather causes cancellation).
Where to Stay
Budget: Cacari Beach Cottages (on Honda Bay), Casa Linda Inn (city centre). Mid-range: Acacia Tree Garden Hotel, Hue Hotels and Resorts Puerto Princesa. Upper mid-range: Princesa Garden Island Resort, Best Western Plus Puerto Princesa. For those heading straight to the Underground River: Sabang Cove Camp (basic, directly at the cave embarkation point — saves the 1.5-hour morning drive).
For the rest of Palawan, read our El Nido travel guide and the Coron diving and island guide. Palawan is consistently ranked among the best island destinations in the world — give it more than a transit day.
